After moving to Mumbai (India), commuting from one place to another became a big problem (as we didn’t have our own vehicle). It seems Mumbai local trains are the most efficient, carrying millions of people every day. Getting in and out of local trains is one of the hardest tasks, particularly during rush hours, which every Mumbaikar has to experience at least once in their life. So, a lot of advice was given from Santanu’s maternal family, who have been staying here for more than 15 years. Being given so much advice aroused our curiosity.
On the first day, things seemed to be very easy, unlike the situations that were narrated to us. Even getting seats was not a problem; neither getting down nor boarding was difficult. Thus, our first trip by Mumbai locals was quite easy and calm.
By this time, we had already traveled twice or thrice for short distances during non-rush hours. One day, we decided to go to Mumbai Central, particularly towards the south, to meet a friend. But that day, our boarding station was quite crowded, more than we had ever experienced before. We mustered enough courage to board a train together, which was an experience in itself. While waiting for our train at the platform, we saw many women waiting at one particular spot, which we soon realized was where the ladies’ compartment would arrive.
Normally, all seats are taken by burly or experienced people who time their jump onto the moving train with perfection—comparing them to urban cheetahs would not be out of place. By the time the train leaves the platform, it’s overcrowded, with half the people hanging outside either to get fresh air or waiting for the next station to arrive. Hardly any space is there for even a little fly to get in through the door.
In that crowd, you can see people from different walks of life. Some are reading newspapers, some are listening to music so loud it’s as if they are playing for their co-passengers, some are snoozing, and some are staring while others might be observing people like me. Even staring at women who dare to be in the general class is quite common, as Mumbai locals don’t believe in chivalry. Being the only woman, I looked around and found a few people standing like fortresses around me while others stared at me. When I looked at those staring eyes, I found many people pretending not to.
Santanu is very possessive in certain matters, keeping his arms around me so that no one dares to say or touch anything, trying to create a protective shell. Somehow, after a while, we got some place to sit for a few stops. In the meantime, we learned that if we have to get down at the requisite station, we have to leave our seat at least two stations prior to prepare ourselves to get down.
While sitting, one experiences many other things. Depending on your height, you might get views like someone’s armpit across your nose, well-oiled hair poking right inside your nose, a newspaper across your face, or people shouting over the phone. That’s not the last of it; if you want, you can look outside where you see many people sitting beside the railway track, brushing their teeth, answering nature’s call, and what not. Anyhow, with the crowd, we somehow managed to get off the train without losing our handbag, sandals, or any other personal belongings.
In Mumbai, there are three main train lines with a few junctions where people can change trains. There is no single station where all these three lines connect. Getting in or out at any of these junction stations is really the ultimate experience. The rush squeezes you to the limit, something I have never experienced before—it’s intimacy at its best and privacy at its worst. Your co-passengers will make sure you get off the train without any effort on your part. One good push, and you find yourself at the station, thanking God that you are in one piece with all your belongings intact. Within seconds, you realize that the crowd that helped you get off the train has already dispersed.
We took a long deep breath. Maybe it was something new to us, but it’s just another day for all other Mumbaikars. While walking past the platform, I thought about those disabled or handicapped people, children, aged people, or pregnant ladies. Is there anything for them like in Western countries? In certain matters, India needs a lot of improvement in its commuting system for every kind of citizen.
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