Ever since childhood, I heard about Tirupati but never had a chance until now, nor did I understand why people used to grumble until they had darshan. Maybe God wanted me to experience the same. A few days back, Santanu suddenly decided to visit before his upcoming hectic weeks at the office. So it was a kind of planned-unplanned trip. The reason it was unplanned knowingly was that we didn’t have any tickets in hand before starting the journey, nor did we have any references to make use of. As planned, we were to start early morning at 5, but when we woke up to the alarm ring, I could hear tiny shards of crystals falling from the sky against leaves, trees, and windows. I woke Santanu; he looked at the time, then towards the window, and back to the clock. The clock said it was 4.15 am, but it was dark outside. The bed was warm and comfortable, so he set the alarm again for 5.00 am. This time we both jumped out of bed with the alarm ring. We had kept our things packed the night before, so the last-minute final touch-up with packing was left, which Santanu did, while I got dressed up and fed Aarush in his sleep. By 6.00, we were at our parking lot.
The route we took for Tirupati was Bangalore – Kolar – Mulbagilu - Palamneru - Chittoor – Tirupati. The road till Kolar is not that excellent due to ongoing construction. Because of which we missed Woody’s restaurant, and moreover, my son was in deep sleep. So we decided to make a stop at Cafe-Coffee Day for a restroom. Foods are highly pricey but excellent in terms of neatness. Still, Aarush was sleeping blissfully, and we didn’t want to disturb him, as when he is in sleep, it’s good for driving by accelerating. We took one takeaway coffee for Santanu from Cafe-Coffee Day and were on our way. After 10, we stopped at BANS restaurant near Chittoor, had our breakfast there (prices were reasonable and a very neat place), and were back on the road. Landscapes are really worth seeing, particularly on a sunny day, but unfortunately, the weather was bad that day. On the way at Palamneru check post, one policeman stopped us seeing our Maharashtra number plate car and asked for 100 rs, as we were going to Tirupati…strange! Did he think we were going for fun or a honeymoon? We declined, saying give us a receipt for the same or leave us. We reached Tirupati around 11.00 am. Tirupati is the temple town in Chittoor District of Andhra Pradesh, located in the foothills of Tirumala. And Tirumala is famous for the shrine of Lord Venkateshwara.
Santanu decided to go to Tirumala to get the tickets for darshan first and later look for a hotel at the foothill. So we straight away went towards the hill after scanning our baggage and paying toll of Rs 20. The road is one way and really superb to drive through with scenic beauty around. It took 25 min to reach there. Till this point everything went smoothly; now the actual part starts - how and where to get a ticket with less wait time in the queue for darshan. The best part is nobody knows exactly; everyone will say something different. Through internet study, we knew that the Vaikuntam Queue Complex (a series of interconnected halls that leads to the main temple) will give a ticket of Rs. 300 for Seeghra Darshan (fast darshan), but in actuality, you get into the queue immediately without knowing when you can see the lord. Whereas, if you buy tickets of Rs. 50 and Rs. 100, they are given according to the availability of tickets on that particular day with no guarantee of time spent in the queue. So one person there told us to go to Vijaya bank for fast darshan. Then we drove back near the bus stand where Vijaya bank is, after searching here and there. The people near the counter have hardly any time to explain anything. It’s like you buy a ticket or get lost kind of. Anyways, at the counter, he said he has a ticket for the same evening, nothing for Sunday morning. We wanted Sunday early morning so that after a shower, we can pay our obeisance as it was our 7th anniversary. As man proposes and god disposes, we bought a ticket blindly for that evening for 1000 bucks without understanding any head or tail. This time biometrics (finger printing and photo) were taken to eliminate the involvement of middlemen, I believe.
On getting tickets on hand, we saw it was written Sahasra Deepalankarana Seva at Kovulu Mandapam in front of the temple at 5.30 pm with 5 small laddus free. And the maximum number of people allowed for this is 5. Now we started looking for the temple, as it was already 2.30 PM, and at Tirumala, for everything, there is a big line, be it for the ticket counter, ladoo counter, tonsure, restroom, etc. We crossed on the way Ram Bagicha Guest House (aka RBGH), maths, Kalyan Mandapam, etc., but still could not figure out where the temple is because of misty weather. Then we asked one person who guided us to the Ram Bagicha entrance and told to ask there. At Ram Bagicha on asking security personnel, he told us to go to building next to Ram Bagicha-3. Till then, we were not sure whether we were in the temple premises or not, as the temple’s gold overlaid gopuram was not visible because of rain. The crowd, queue all together makes the rains a harrowing experience. Moreover, in our ado, we forgot to take our umbrella. On asking the same person about head tonsuring, he said it’s done just at the side downstairs of Rambagicha. I had a strong belief that tonsuring being so famous must be done with some mantra ucharan, but in actuality, nothing like that. With Rs. 10 coupon, we got one barber to get Aarush’s head tonsured. Their hands are so experienced that they did it in a few minutes while my son kept crying frantically. Thereafter, the barber was again asking for more money, which we denied.
On asking a temple worker at that hall, he told one small puja of half an hour will be performed there as of rain, and after collecting one silk Uttariyam and blouse piece along with prasadam, we need to stand in the queue to get a glimpse
of the lord. As it was already 3.30, we decided to feed Aarush with idli just opposite that hall, but he strongly denied after 1-2 morsels which we two later finished. And by 4.00, we went to that hall where they made us sit. The best part was since we were before time; we got a chance to sit in the first row. Strangely, one temple worker gave us something to apply to the forehead, which we took with the thought that we might be the only ones lacking it. But oh my gosh…the next moment he asked for money. We declined to give any money. Truly, till this point, we were feeling like something fraudulent was going on with us; people keep trying to dupe you. Then mustering enough courage, I asked the person sitting beside me, showing our ticket; he told that he also has the same and not to worry; we will be able to see the lord at last. In the midst of Vedic chanting and singing of Sankirtanas, which was live telecasted, we were astonished to see priests with three thick chains, one large pendant hanging near his belly-button other than earring, golden watch strap, wristlet…o god, a real money-making place not to be mentioned. A priest with chain and earring is quite common there.
After half an hour, we rushed along with others for the queue; various signboards indicate the location of the room where pilgrims need to report for their darshan or seva. Outside the room, the ticket is checked along with the biometric data provided at the time of ticket purchase. It was 6.15 when we entered this hall; we waited for 10 min. I believe this was the last hall of VQC; once the gates exiting the halls are opened, the devotee joins the actual queue, and from this point in the queue, it takes about 60–90 minutes (standing/walking) to reach the sanctum sanctorum and have Darshan. Just before entering the temple, there is a bridge connecting Queue complex to Temple where baggage is scanned for the last time. The patience to keep moving step by step for hours together is ultimate. All you can see here is the tonsured heads, be it male or female, and people chanting Gooovinda…Gooovinda. Anyways, after moving on an endless queue with long waits, we reached the sanctum sanctorum, where people crushed us from every side, which is unexplainable. Near to the sanctum, felt like stuck in an unmoving queue. Even my little son couldn’t control his tears; he just burst out (out of hunger, claustrophobia, with madness crushing from all sides). At times waiting in a queue felt like God simply refused to see us. On reaching inside, officials were pushing devotees to one side before one can have a proper sight of the lord. Lastly, that momentary glimpse of the lord arrived where before we could fold our hands, we found ourselves at one corner. All the while I felt like asking God only this much fraction of seconds you have for your devotees who are dying to see you.
Literally, I have to struggle with my memories to recollect the lord’s face. Then with the crowd, came out saw the golden hundi offered our bare minimum dakshinas and then took one round of the temple then again formed a queue to collect prasadam Chakkera-Pongali (sweet pongal), which was hot enough for that cold rainy day. From there followed the sign of ladoo counter, which is again very commercialized. You need to buy poly bags for Rs 2. Then stand in a designated queue depending on the type of ticket you bought. Thank god ours had less queue so got almost instantly. We wanted to buy 2 more extras but couldn’t figure out how and where to collect coupons for the same. Well, satisfied with what we had and happy enough that God at least wished to see us in this form without a bath and without wasting much time in the queue. It was 7.15 pm when we took an exit from the temple, so one hour exactly from the time we were in the queue.
Worth visiting without any plan, all because of God’s grace maybe. We decided to stay that night at Fortune Keenness hotel in Tirupati, just opposite the bus stand. Drove downhill carefully, which is again one way. Roads are really good here with a view of the city. Although considered to be a 4-star, the room 116 provided to us had a roof with water dripping due to extra moisture. Other than that, rest facilities were A class. Had paid buffet dinner after a hot shower, and buffet breakfast the next day morning was complimentary.
Anyway, a happy sort-of-anniversary! we were content with our trip, which ended successfully. As of rain, we decided to return to Bangalore before evening, so started at 10.00 am. On the way this time, we made sure to halt at Woody’s restaurant and had a quick stop at BANS for a restroom. God knows why people want to eat at Woody’s. It was buzzing with flies; I am sure if one or two flies get in with food, I won’t be surprised, so asked for take away. Moreover, we were so stuffed with buffet breakfast that we were hardly hungry enough, so had lassi only. And by 4.30 pm, we reached our parking lot.