Majuli Part-II, Day-11 Assam & Meghalaya Trip 2018

north east assam majuli road trip  Santanu Misra / January 21, 2020
672 words ; 4 minutes read

Morning at Deka Cheng

We went for a morning stroll along the stream that is just in front of Deka Cheng. After coming back about an hour, we had to wait patiently for breakfast as service was super BAD. As mentioned earlier while there was only other guest who is supposed to be a big Government Babu the whole attention of the whole staff was with him only. At the end we felt so frustrated that we gave our peace of mind to the so-called property manager. With that episode that was no point of staying another night with this property.

We saw a board for Ananda and straight went there to enquire about availability. And lucky for us they had one room free and we booked the same.

After booking room for the night we started our Satras exploration. We have a long list of Satras to cover.

  • Shamaguri Satra
  • Kamalabari Satra
  • Auniati Satra
  • Garamurh Satra

Srimanta Sankaradeva, the great 16th-entury saint-reformer of Assam established the satra / (Vaishnavite monasteries) here. And soon Majuli became the epic center of Assamese music, literature, culture and dance forms, Ahom Kings were the patrons. It is like a university by itself, imparting general education as well as cultural and spiritual knowledge and skills to hundreds of monks and who have dedicated their vies to these unique institutions.

There are about 30 of them now as several had to shift to the mainland due to river-bank erosion and floods. Each Satra, headed by a learned scholar, is also a living museum that preserves and propagates the centuries-old art forms alongside spiritualism and bhakti in the manner Srimanta Sankardeva had set rolling.

The satras consist of a large prayer hall facing a simple shrine, surrounded by dormitories for monks. The satras also offer guest accommodation where devotees and visitors not only take part in worship of Vishnu and Krishna, but also watch traditional performances.

Satras fall under two major categories. Those where monks(bhakat) lead celibate lives are called udasin satras. Those where the followers (bhakats) are not celibate and enter domestic life are called grihasti (domestic) satras.

Auniati Satra - Our first stop of the morning, occupied the highest position amongst the various Satras of Assam in the eyes of the Ahom Kings. It follows udasin vaishnavs.

Natun Kamalabari Satra - Our second stop, again we drove towards to the ferry point side. There we saw beautiful doors hand painted where devotes and visitors stay.

Dakhinpat Satra - It was little long drive to reach this one. And at the time of our travel there was lots of road construction going within Majuli it felt like a long road. Thus satra close to the watercourse Brahmaputra.

Samaguri Satra - A small satra famous worldwide for it’s Mask-making tradition. Hemchandra Goswami is an award-winning craftsman who is responsible for developing this craft in recent times. The entire family practices this craft and we were very lucky to sit down with him and he explained the complete mask making process to us.

Uttar Kamlabari Satra - our last satra on the list. By this time, we were little bored with satras.

In between we stopped for sunset point and bought some handmade stuff from Rengam Women Co-operative.

Mising Food

Mising Food


In the evening we moved out luggage from Deka Cheng to La Maison De Ananda, as the name suggest it has a French connection as one of the founding owner is French and main brain behind these eco-friendly home-stay.

The dinner was one the best of the whole trip. Wife of Mr.Monjit Resong (manager of the property) cooked us famous Mising dishes. We stepped in to the kitchen-dinning area little early and we could see the preparation & cooking with our own eyes. We had lots of fresh fish, chicken and vegetables and rice, we were told the pork dishes and home made beer is their specialty.

I am not a foodie but can just take another trip to Majuli just for the food and hospitability of Mr. Monjit.

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When I was planning this long trip to Assam I always wanted to drive all the way up to Dibrugarh where I studied till class 5. Later, in the final planning stage realized it was too long of a drive. Covering Guwahati, Shillong & Dibrugarh was getting too much in one trip so saved it for a later day. Sivasagar remained in the itinerary for a night stay with a condition if we finish Gibbon-Hollongapar and still have time to explore the ancient capital of the Ahom kingdom.

Somewhere on the internet once read the need for a vacation within a vacation. I know it sounds oxymoron but trust me when you are on the road for some time you need a day or two just doing nothing. Majuli was supposed to a magical place for us. As we drove back west from Sivsagar we took the diversion to Nematighat, the boat embarkation point (ferry ghat) to go to Majuli.

The first thing I did after getting up early was cleaning the rented car which was by now full of dusts for yesterday driving around Majuli. After some time Pamela and Aarush work up and we got ready to leave Majuli and head out. We had a quick breakfast and said bye to Mr. Ranjit. He suggested we take a different route as we are suppose to cross mighty Brahmaputra and reach North bank.

Our trip to Hollong was one of the most challenging and memorable ones. Still, after so many months, it remains clear like yesterday. We slept early knowing we have to leave early. So when the alarm went off at 4 AM the whole place was quiet and dark. We hauled all our luggage from the room to the rented car. It was a bit of a task given that we were staying backside of the property.