Pokaran – From Historic Forts to Golden Dunes
Today, we checked out of our Jodhpur hotel a day earlier than planned and set off towards Jaisalmer. As we exited from Pratap Niwas and headed toward the highway, we continued on the ring road of Jodhpur and crossed vast lands marked for future development. Jodhpur is a city to look out for, as it has premier institutions like IIT (Indian Institute of Technology), AIIMS (All India Institute of Medical Sciences), NLU (National Law University), NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology), and many more. It could well become a major city in its own right soon.
The highway was just getting better — long, straight stretches with smooth tarmac, almost cinematic, like something out of a Western movie. We crossed the Amritsar–Jamnagar Economic Corridor (NH754) — an ambitious project connecting Punjab’s industrial belt to Gujarat’s ports via a 6-lane expressway.
On the way, we had decided to visit Pokhran, famously known as the site of India’s first underground nuclear test. Just before entering the town, we took a short break at a small roadside spot after leaving the highway for breakfast before visiting the fort.
Pokhran, meaning “the place of five mirages,” is surrounded by sandy plains, rocky terrains, and salt ranges. The town also houses the historic Balagarh Fort, built in the 14th century by Marwar Thakur Rao Maldeo. The fort, though relatively small and made of striking red sandstone, is dedicated to Goddess Durga. As we entered, we were greeted by a massive gate with sharp spikes designed to deter elephant charges — a classic feature of Rajput architecture. Inside, the fort’s museum showcases an impressive collection of armory, pottery, miniature paintings, and royal costumes. We spent a good amount of time exploring different corners before continuing our journey along NH125 toward Jaisalmer.
Jaisalmer – Golden City and Sand Dunes
After about a 45-minute drive, we arrived at Club Mahindra Resort in Jaisalmer. Post check-in and a few quick photos, we decided to head to the famous Living Fort. After parking nearby, we hopped into an auto-rickshaw to enter the fort premises.
As we stepped inside, the soulful tunes of a Rajasthani sarangi and the husky voice of a folk singer, dressed in a colorful turban and white attire, instantly transported us into the vibrant culture of Rajasthan — almost felt like a personalized welcome.
We strolled through the fort’s narrow alleys, but the early winter sun was still surprisingly harsh, reminding us of our last visit here. Feeling a bit drained, we took a lunch break while planning our trip to the sand dunes. After checking with a few local agents, we finalized an evening experience at Sam Sand Dunes, including entertainment and dinner.
Since we had some time before sunset, we visited Baa ki Haveli, located within the fort. Once home to Brahmin priests who served the Jaisalmer kings, this five-story stone haveli is more than just a museum — it’s a piece of architecture that stuns. The terrace views of the fort were breathtaking and totally worth the stop.
Later in the afternoon, we drove ourselves towards Sam Sand Dunes, aiming to catch the sunset. Once there, we boarded a 4x4 jeep that took us on an exhilarating ride across the dunes — sharp dips, steep turns, and belly flips included!
A little later, Aarush and I hopped onto a 20-foot-high camel for a ride across the rolling sands — one of those magical experiences you don’t get in many parts of the world. We had enough time to soak in the mesmerizing sunset, and if you’re into photography, this is where you get those postcard-worthy silhouettes of camels against a golden sky.
Cultural Night and Dinner
After sunset, depending on your package, you can enjoy cultural performances like the Kalbeliya dance, followed by dinner under the stars. Just as the performances began, we realized time was slipping away. Since we had a long drive back, we decided to skip the entertainment and grab dinner near the Golden Fort instead.
Just as we were about to leave, one of the organizers approached us. After we explained our situation, he graciously arranged an early dinner — even though the usual plan is for guests to stay overnight in tents. The meal was simple but hearty, and soon after, we set off into the pitch-dark desert roads, heading back to our hotel — memories etched, till we visit again in the sands of time.
Most Sam Sand Dunes packages include a camel ride, jeep safari, entertainment, dinner, and an overnight stay. Compared to our visit 10 years ago, the area has grown into a sprawling village filled with hotels and tents. As human presence expands, the desert is slowly losing its raw charm, with man-made scars appearing across the landscape.
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