Summer 2024 – Rhododendron Trek in Sikkim

As I was planning my summer vacation, Santanu suggested we consider the Annapurna Trek. While exploring the idea, he introduced me to one of his running friends who was also interested in the same trek. However, after talking to them, I realized their plans were still in the early stages and not well-structured. By the time they finalized a guide and porter, flight prices had skyrocketed—tickets that were once affordable became too expensive. I also sensed they weren’t too keen on involving new people in their group.

Around the same time, the Happifeet group — whom I often trek with on local trails—started posting about their upcoming Rhododendron Trek in Sikkim. I immediately reached out, especially to Neeth, who was coordinating the trip and already known to me. Thankfully, they responded quickly and confirmed they had space for more participants.

Excited, I asked for their itinerary and found it well-planned. Without delay, I booked my tickets early—this time flying to my in-laws’ place a few days before the trek, giving me a chance to spend 3–4 days with my mother-in-law. I also planned to stop there again on the return, spending a night before heading back to Bangalore.

On the day of the trek, about 10 of us were scheduled to meet near Bagdogra Airport, along the highway close to North Bengal University. Since it was nearby for me, I took a rickshaw to the meeting point. From there, we divided into two Innovas and drove to Jorethang via Sevoke Road and the Coronation Bridge. The city traffic was intense, with flyover construction causing roadblocks. The Teesta River accompanied us along the way, but the recent dam project, floods, and landslides had left it murky and altered its once-beautiful appearance.

We stopped at Jorethang for lunch and then continued our ascent to Okhrey, our final stop for the day, which sat at a significantly higher elevation. That night, we stayed at an OYO hotel—Sonam Residency Homestay. Since most others had come with partners or kids, I had a room to myself. The homestay was right beside the road, and I had to quickly pull out my jacket as the temperature dropped.

As we climbed higher, the weather shifted—the village of Okhrey was soon blanketed in a thick mist, leaving little chance to explore the area. After a comforting hot dinner, everyone turned in early, exhausted from the long journey through the hills. We also had an early start the next morning as our trek was about to begin.

Into the Mist: First Day on the Barsey Rhododendron Trek

We woke up early to the sound of our alarms and got ready for the day—fully aware that this would be our last hot shower for the next four days. After a quick breakfast, we packed ourselves into a Sumo and began our journey. As the vehicle wound its way uphill, the early morning sun briefly appeared before clouds crept back in, hinting at the fickle mountain weather ahead.

After about 16 kilometers of a bumpy, roller-coaster-like ride, we reached the Barsey entry gate. Here, we met our two local guides who handled the entry tickets for us. I felt a wave of relief when I learned that the trek ahead was relatively simple—something I had been a bit anxious about.

The first stretch of the trail was uneventful, though we were entertained by signboards displaying the various species of rhododendron and wildlife native to the region. Walking at our own pace, we soon reached an open clearing—a perfect resting spot with beautiful views. A school group was also there, their youthful chatter filling the air, but it added a lively energy to the otherwise quiet surroundings.

Almost all the rhododendron trees were in full bloom, painting the forest with vibrant colors. This clearing also offered a panoramic view of the valley below. From there, we continued through the dense rhododendron jungle toward the rest house, located another 500 meters ahead—just past a small water reservoir. Nearby, we came across a small shrine adorned with fluttering Tibetan prayer flags and coins placed thoughtfully on stones, a peaceful and sacred corner in the middle of the woods. After taking a few pictures, we moved on.

The trail ahead led us deeper into the forest, en route to Dewningali Dhaap. The rain soon joined our adventure, gently soaking the path and making the stones slippery with moss. One young girl in our group slipped, injuring her lip and twisting her wrist, but she was incredibly brave and chose to continue the trek.

Dewningali is a traditional site where locals harvest bamboo for weaving and domestic crafts. It’s also known for being a natural habitat for wild boars. Our porters lit a fire and began preparing snacks, lifting our spirits just as the cold started to settle in. We all huddled around the warmth, grateful for the break and the hot food.

That night, we camped in twin-sharing tents. I was paired with a 15-year-old, who turned out to be a cheerful and energetic tent mate. It had been a long, misty, and eventful day—one that marked a perfect beginning to our rhododendron trek.

Day III – Through Meadows, Streams, and Moonlit Shadows

The morning at Dewningali Dhaap greeted us with clear skies and gentle sunshine, though the valley winds made the air feel crisp and alive. We had around 8 kilometers to trek that day, with noticeable elevation gain and a few stream crossings that instantly lifted our spirits. The ground was carpeted with soft, woolly grass still damp from the morning dew—interrupted occasionally by yak droppings and the unfortunate sight of plastic waste left behind by careless trekkers.

We set off after breakfast, immediately tackling a steep ascent through dense forest. The trail led us past a small waterfall and two serene mountain streams. We paused to wash our hands and splash our faces with the icy water—it was incredibly refreshing. The occasional gurgling of water and the high-pitched chirping of mountain birds broke the otherwise peaceful silence of the woods.

As we continued, the trail meandered through lush ferns, thick bamboo groves, and clusters of pink rhododendrons in bloom. Eventually, we came upon Haas Pokhri, a tranquil alpine pond. Just a little beyond, we stopped for our packed lunch, soaking in the silence and natural beauty around us.

After lunch, the trail gently rose and fell, taking us through a rhododendron-covered path. Dried petals scattered along the ground created a vibrant natural carpet—almost as if the forest itself was welcoming us onward.

By late afternoon, we arrived at Thulo Dhap, a vast, open meadow with a stream flowing alongside our campsite. As evening approached, the wind picked up, growing so fierce it became difficult to sit in the dining tent. Dinner was served early, around 6:30–7:30 p.m., and we quickly retreated into our respective tents, curling into our sleeping bags to escape the chill.

The night was pitch dark and quiet, broken only by the distant clinking of bells from animals roaming nearby. Twice in the night, I had to get up to relieve myself. Stepping out with my headlamp, I was struck by the surreal beauty of moonlight playing peekaboo through the drifting clouds. Though it took some courage, I made my way to the toilet tent quietly so as not to wake anyone. Afterward, feeling lighter and oddly at peace, I returned to my tent and fell into a deep, uninterrupted sleep until the morning light crept in.

Day IV – Battling Winds on the Way to Kalijhar

Today marked the shortest stretch of our trek, but it packed a punch with its steep ascents. Despite the effort, the ever-changing landscapes continued to leave us awestruck. The purpose of the shorter trek was to give our tired legs some rest and to avoid overexertion before the final push.

Since the distance was manageable, we didn’t carry lunch with us. We simply walked light, enjoying the trail as it gradually led us to our next campsite—Kalijhar. The path was lined with blooming rhododendrons, and we couldn’t resist stopping frequently for photos. Along the way, we reached a stunning flatland surrounded by trees, where we took a breather and had an impromptu photo session, soaking in the calm before the windstorm ahead.

As we approached Kalijhar, the weather turned wild. Ferocious winds began howling through the campsite, shaking our tents with alarming force. The tent poles bent under pressure, and the sound of the wind roaring through the mountains was both thrilling and unsettling—at times, it truly felt like we’d be swept away like Aladdin on a flying carpet.

Our guides quickly responded by placing heavy rocks around the tents to secure them from blowing away. Despite the chaos outside, we stayed tucked inside the tent, where we had our lunch, snacks, and dinner. In a heartwarming surprise, we were treated to cake—a small celebration for our final night camping in the wilderness.

The wind didn’t let up for a moment, but thankfully, the tents held their ground, and we made it through the night without incident. Before turning in, we set our alarms to rise early the next morning for a sunrise trek to Phoktey Dara, the anticipated highlight of our journey.

Day V – From Sunrise to Singshore: The Grand Finale

Our day began in pitch darkness at 4 a.m., as we prepared for a steep climb to Phoktey Dara, a viewpoint perched above Kalijhar. This 40-minute ascent was no easy task—it was cold, the trail was lined with loose stones, and we had only our headlamps to light the way. But every step was worth it.

As dawn broke, we were greeted with a breathtaking panorama—Mount Kangchenjunga standing tall on one side and the majestic peaks of Nepal on the other. The sunrise cast golden hues across the horizon, and we spent ample time soaking in the view and clicking countless pictures with both India and Nepal as our backdrop.

Once satisfied, we descended back to our campsite, where the relentless wind still howled through the valley. After breakfast and a heartfelt gratitude speech to our porters and guides, we packed up for the long descent to Chittarey.

The day was bright and sunny—perfect weather for what turned out to be the most physically demanding leg of the trek. The trail wound down through ridges and hills, eventually leading us to Chiaybhanjyang, a remote military and police outpost perched high in the mountains. The route followed a gravel path originally built by the British, now hugging the Indo-Nepal border. Along the way, we passed small border markers and paused to admire one of the most peaceful and porous international boundaries in the world.

At Chiaybhanjyang, we completed mandatory check-ins, showing our faces and handing over the permits to the local authorities. After a short rest, we began what felt like an endless descent to Chitrey—a seemingly never-ending staircase carved into stone and winding all the way down. We passed a few trekking groups headed toward Kalijhar, exchanged quick hellos, and pressed on.

Upon reaching the army post at Chitrey, we paused for lunch and shared a friendly conversation with the stationed army personnel. Energized, we continued on foot for the final leg of the day’s journey—a 10 km stretch to Uttarey.

The trail led us through dense forest, across wooden bridges, over cascading streams, and along narrow, slippery paths. The rocks beneath our feet were hard on the knees, but the end was near. We finally exited the Rhododendron Sanctuary, marking the end of an unforgettable trail. After a brief photo session at the sanctuary gate, we walked the remaining 2 km downhill.

Waiting at the bottom was our Sumo vehicle—and a warm surprise. The main trek organizer greeted each of us with a Khata, the traditional ceremonial scarf symbolizing honor and respect. It was a beautiful moment of closure.

En route to our hotel, we crossed the awe-inspiring Singshore Bridge—the highest suspension bridge in Sikkim and the second-highest in Asia. To avoid overloading, we were asked to walk across on foot. The view into the deep gorge below was thrilling, and we couldn’t resist taking a few final photos.

At last, we reached the hotel, where hot showers awaited—our first in three days. The day ended with a delicious dinner, laughter, and one last group photo session before we finally slipped into our beds, exhausted but content.

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