Desert Trails - Exploring Kutch

Day 1: Journey to Little Rann of Kutch

Our trip had been in the works since September — since December holidays being the peak season. We started with booking flight tickets to reserving accommodations at Airbnbs and hotels, and even arranging a cab that would stay with us throughout the trip. We meticulously planned our itinerary, detailing every destination and stop along the way.

The three of us began our journey from Ahmedabad in our cab, making a midway stop to visit a fabric factory. This wasn’t originally on the agenda, but Mrinalini had some official work there. Thanks to her, we got an unexpected yet fascinating glimpse into the factory operations and enjoyed a simple lunch at their canteen.

After the factory visit, we resumed our drive toward the Little Rann of Kutch — a lesser-known gem. Our night halt was at Zainabad, at a place called Desert Coursers. I had actually visited this same spot around 10 years ago during a previous trip across Gujarat. Since heading straight to Bhuj would have meant a long and tiring drive, we decided to break the journey here. Another major reason for the detour was the chance to spot the endangered Indian wild ass, native to this region. Not only that — the mudflats with brackish water attract thousands of birds, making it a paradise for birdwatchers.

However, our drive wasn’t entirely smooth. Google Maps first led us to a farm by mistake, and after a few detours and numerous phone calls to the resort, we finally reached our destination. Unsurprisingly, the area had changed a lot in the past decade.

Unfortunately, the final stretch of road to the resort — which passes through a village — was littered with plastic waste, a sign of local administrative neglect. But once we arrived, it was pure bliss. We stayed in traditional bhungas, which were cozy, comfortable, and well-equipped.

Day 2: Safari & Drive to Bhuj

The next morning, right after breakfast, we set off on a three-hour wildlife safari into the Little Rann of Kutch. Our private jeep was just for the three of us, and we were thrilled to spot the Indian wild ass, along with a variety of bird species. The experience was truly memorable — made even more special by the familiar faces at Desert Coursers, the same warm, welcoming, and knowledgeable team we had met a decade ago.

After the safari, we returned, freshened up, and packed our bags for the next leg of our journey. We had lunch just before checking out and then hit the road for a long drive to Bhuj, where we had an Airbnb booked for the night.

The drive was around 290 km, and by the time we reached the outskirts of Bhuj, it was nearly 7 PM. Since our Airbnb was a bit off the main road, we decided to stop for dinner first and enjoyed a traditional Gujarati thali.

Later that evening, we finally arrived at our Airbnb(Neeru’s Courtyard). The room was tastefully designed, with a unique skylight in the restroom — simple, stylish, and thoughtfully done. The only downside was that there wasn’t a provision for our driver to stay. We coordinated with our cab organizer, spoke with the property owner, and then settled in for the night, chatting about our plans for the next day.

Day 3: Visit to Mandvi

We started our day early — all three of us got ready and enjoyed a lovely breakfast prepared by our Airbnb host herself. Our destination for the day was Mandvi, located about 60 km from Bhuj, known for its 400-year-old shipbuilding industry.

Our first stop was the serene Swaminarayan Temple, where we spent some peaceful moments soaking in the calm atmosphere.

Next, we visited the magnificent Vijay Vilas Palace — the summer retreat of the royal family of Bhuj. We hired a guide to walk us through its history and architecture. Surrounded by lush gardens, flowing water channels, and elegant marble fountains, the palace is a beautiful blend of heritage and design. The first level houses a museum, while the upper floors remain private. The open terrace on top offers panoramic views of the surroundings and is famous for being a filming location for the Bollywood movie Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam. A striking antique spiral staircase adds to the palace’s charm.

After spending a good amount of time exploring, we made our way to Mandvi Beach. The route was extremely crowded, but we were determined to experience the Arabian Sea in all its evening glory. This part of the sea is relatively calm, perfect for a long, relaxing walk along the shore.

While the beach wasn’t in the best condition — likely due to the heavy crowds — it was still worth visiting. As the sun began to set, we asked a local photographer to capture a few moments for us. He was kind and patient, helping us get some beautiful sunset shots to remember the day.

Day 4: Historical Sites and Artisan Villages Around Bhuj

Today’s itinerary was packed with history, culture, and local crafts.

We began with a visit to Prag Mahal, an architectural marvel built in the Italian Gothic style. Though parts of it were damaged during the earthquake, the grandeur still stands. Constructed using Italian marble, the palace features stunning jaali (latticed stone) windows and boasts a 45-foot-high clock tower that offers panoramic views of the city.

Next, we headed to Aina Mahal, right next to Prag Mahal. Unfortunately, we arrived during closing hours as it was noon, so we decided to move on and return later if possible.

Before continuing to Smritivan, we stopped for lunch. Our cab driver took us to a nearby seminar venue where food was being served by a Sindhi community group. Although it felt a bit awkward dining at a private event, we were graciously welcomed, and after finishing our meal, we waited outside to thank the organizer and offer a contribution.

We then drove to Smritivan, a memorial built to honor the victims of the 2001 Gujarat earthquake. Seeing the long queue, we decided to skip it and headed straight to Ajrakhpur and Bhujodi — well-known hubs for traditional crafts.

At Ajrakhpur, we shopped for beautifully hand-printed sarees and textiles. On the way back, we visited LLDC (Living and Learning Design Centre) — a sprawling craft museum showcasing the diverse art forms of the Kutch region. It was an impressive and enriching visit.

By around 5 PM, we reached the Vande Mataram Memorial, a large open space that features replicas of Indian landmarks such as the Parliament Building, India Gate, and a Yellow Fort. We continued shopping at Bhujodi, picking up souvenirs and gifts.

That night, we checked into the much-loved The Bhuj House, a beautiful heritage homestay tucked away in the old part of Bhuj. Though we managed to get a booking for just one night, we were eager to experience its famed hospitality. The place had a timeless charm and truly felt like stepping back into a more graceful era. Advance booking is highly recommended, especially during peak seasons.

Day 5: Exploring Kadiya Dhro – The Hidden River Canyon of Kutch

Our stay at The Bhuj House was in the charming Parsi district of Bhuj. We were allotted the Agassi Room, which features two interconnected rooms — one with a double bed and the other with twin beds leading into the ensuite. The interiors were furnished with original rosewood beds and adorned with beautiful Kutchi textiles. Access to the room was via a quaint spiral staircase, adding to the heritage feel.

After a delicious breakfast in their open dining area, we began our journey to Kadiya Dhro, a lesser-known but stunning river canyon located about 35 km from Bhuj.

We parked at a designated spot and hired a shared jeep to reach the canyon — around ₹1,000 per group (worth bargaining). Though it’s best visited in the morning, we reached in the afternoon. The open jeep ride was bumpy but filled with anticipation.

From the drop-off, we trekked a short distance to reach the canyon. On one side lies a seasonal waterfall, and to get there, we had to cross through a narrow gorge carved over centuries. The sight was breathtaking — layers of vividly colored rock, steep canyon walls, and pure silence broken only by the rustling wind. It’s a raw, untouched landscape that feels almost surreal.

We then visited nearby villages like Nirona, known for Rogan art. We picked up unique paintings and visited a local workshop that specializes in copper bell crafts — fascinating to watch and perfect for souvenirs.

By early evening, we returned to our previous Airbnb for a relaxed end to the day. For dinner, we tried a popular local restaurant and later enjoyed some quiet time at the homestay, reflecting on the day’s offbeat adventures.

Day 6: Final Day in Bhuj – From Ancient Civilizations to the White Rann

Today marked our final day in Bhuj. After breakfast, we set off on a 130 km journey to Dholavira, one of the most significant archaeological sites of the Indus Valley Civilization.

En route, we crossed the Tropic of Cancer, a marked location on the road between Bhuj and the Rann of Kutch. Not far from there, we stopped at Magnetic Hill — a natural optical illusion where vehicles appear to roll uphill.

Our first major stop was Kalo Dungar (Black Hill), the highest point in Kutch, home to the 400-year-old Dattatreya Temple. The panoramic views from here were stunning — a sweeping look at the vast Rann below.

We continued to Dholavira, a UNESCO World Heritage Site showcasing the ingenuity of Harappan urban planning. The vast site, its layout, and water reservoirs were fascinating. We’d timed our visit for better lighting — and it paid off.

One unforgettable part of the day was driving along the “Road to Heaven” — a surreal 30 km stretch between Khavda and Dholavira, flanked by the endless white Rann on both sides. It felt like something out of a dream. No photo could do it justice.

After a simple lunch at a local dhaba, we made our way to our final stay — a tented camp in the White Desert. After some photo stops, we arrived around 4:30–5:00 PM, just in time for the sunset — although cloud cover muted the glow.

Instead of heading straight to our tent, we wandered into the White Rann area where a festive atmosphere awaited — folk dances, traditional music, camel carts, ATV rides, and handicrafts.

After dark, we checked into our tent, dropped our bags, and visited a nearby craft exhibition before dinner. Exhausted, we turned in early — with a 4 AM wake-up call the next morning to drive to Ahmedabad for our late afternoon flight back to Bangalore.