Khardungla Challenge & Ladakh marathon

This is going to be a lengthy post, and I want to share my journey now that the dust has settled. It’s October 2023, and I think it’s a good time to reflect on some minor details before they slip from my memory.

It all began in September 2019, when I noticed people proudly wearing their finisher jackets from the KhardungLa challenge, even limping after completing one of the most grueling ultra-distance runs at Leh airport.

However, as we all know, 2020 & 21 were incredibly challenging for everyone with Covid pandemic, and there were no KhardungLa races during those years. Fast forward to 2022, and with my 50th birthday approaching in 23, I decided it might be an excellent challenge to take up. To participate, I needed to run two marathons under 5 hours.

Preparation

The first marathon was our own Bangalore marathon in October. I did decently but I was struggling for the last 5 KMs where my friends were pushing me to finish it harder. Prashanth, Avi, John really tried their best. Consequently, I decided to incorporate strength training before my next race, which was in Goa, just 10 weeks later in December. I wasn’t entirely sure how it would go.

I was fortunate to have my running buddies (Avi, Shilpa, Sandeep, Brijesh, Sudhi) join me on a fun trip to Goa, where we traveled by train, rented a few scooters, and had a blast.

On race day, I embarked on the full marathon alone while my friends ran the half marathon. I paced myself cautiously, engaging in conversations with fellow runners along the way. Despite the humid conditions, my legs remained strong, and my determination prevailed. I made a promise to myself not to walk, and I kept running, even when the second loop meant running alone with no one to accompany me except for occasional greetings to my friends who were running the fast-paced half marathon.

I completed the marathon with a time close to my personal best. The race had started late, which was not known to the Half Marathon guys so when I finished they thought I did OK OK. But when I told them the details they were happier than me.

I realized firsthand how incorporating strength training could make a difference, though I won’t delve into this topic further, as there are numerous articles and videos available on the internet.

After a fun-filled December 2022, during which I traveled to Bhopal to reunite with my college buddies after 27 long years.

2023 started with my laziness and procrastination to neglect my strength training. I did make an attempt to participate in the virtual Dandi run(March), a challenging event covering the same distance Mahatma Gandhi did almost 90 years ago, totaling 383.80 km in three and a half weeks. This required running approximately 100 kilometers per week. Unfortunately, I couldn’t complete the entire distance, hitting a wall after two and a half weeks. In April, I managed to run only a few times.

With Khardung La registration done and flight tickets booked as schools reopened, I realized I needed to become more disciplined and incorporate strength training into my running routine. Thanks to my dear friend Neera, who accommodated me in her virtual training program, I made an effort to be a diligent student.

Many people I know from Bangalore who had previously taken on the Khardung La challenge used to incorporate Nandi run. Nandi hill is the highest hill around Bangalore with decent elevation gain. Covering a distance of around 7.5 km with an elevation gain of approximately 419 meters(1375ft). Due to my busy schedule, I couldn’t find time for it and my thinking was, after all it is sea level :) compared to Leh so what’s the point.

Instead, I maintained a consistent weekly mileage of 70/75 km by running on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, and Sundays. I didn’t follow a specific plan; I simply aimed to stay in good physical and mental shape.

The months of June, July, and August were crucial, and I’m grateful that I didn’t fall ill despite maintaining a demanding lifestyle. I was often tired, leaving me with little time and energy for my other hobbies, like baking small cakes.

The Journey

At the end of August, I traveled to Hyderabad and participated in the full marathon there. Though I didn’t have a concrete plan, I aimed to finish before 4:30, and I achieved that goal comfortably. Again I was happy that John, Sandeep and Shilpa joined me till Hyderabad.

Small trivia, Shilpa achieved podium in all these three races Bangalore, Goa, and Hyderabad. She is a very dedicated and strong runner. Best of luck to her in the Boston Marathon in 2024!

The plan for Khardung La had been hatched in March, and I was staying in the same hotel as Dinesh, planning to travel with him to Leh on the same flight. For those who may not know Dinesh, he is a remarkable individual who has been running the Khardung La challenge, followed by a full marathon, for the past couple of years in Leh. He’s always helpful, calm, and composed.

It was Dinesh, Amit (another fellow runner from Goa), and me who all completed the Hyderabad full marathon and then traveled together to Leh on the same evening flight with a stopover in Mumbai.

We arrived in Leh almost 2 weeks before the race to acclimatize ourselves. Our daily routine involved morning runs around Leh, with the rest of the day spent either working or resting, punctuated by short coffee breaks in Leh’s market when time allowed. One positive side of Covid now is that every corner of India has decent Wifi to work remotely.

On the first weekend, I was fortunate to meet up with friends from Bangalore who had come to Leh Ladakh on a motorcycle trip. The pictures they took and the places they visited were mesmerizing, with remote streams reflecting turquoise hues, and the night sky revealing the entire Milky Way. Although my friends weren’t astro-photographers, their mobile phone photos were mind-blowing. I hope to explore those corners of Ladakh myself someday, though only time will tell.

As the race week approached, I met more runners from across India, some of them hailing from Assam to Gujarat. Few names to mention are Vinay (old PaceMakers), Rupa ( GKVK runners), Srinivas G (another Bangalorian), Bhagawan Singh (Pune) , Anupam & Pranomi (from Guwahati).

On Wednesday the participants of Silk Route Ultra, a 122 km race were to start from Leh to Nubra. The Silk Route overlaps Khardung La Challenge but it is extreme as it starts 50 KM north in the evening of Thursday. The runners only have 22 Hours to complete this. We attended the pre-race briefing and extended our best wishes to the participants. During the briefing, the race director sadly informed us that one of the participants had lost his sister to a cardiac arrest. She had been scheduled to run the Half Marathon on the upcoming Sunday.

The news sent shockwaves through everyone in the indoor stadium, leading to complete silence. It was a stark reminder of the challenges we faced as we prepared for the highest road race in the world, given the extreme conditions. None of us were prepared for such news. The race directors and doctors emphasized the high altitude’s challenges. They reminded us that we are our best doctors, as no one knows our bodies better than ourselves. However, in extreme endurance sports, the mind often needs to push the body to cross the finish line.

KC Frididay 72 KM

We left Leh town on Thursday and headed to Khardung village, following the same route that we would run on the next day. This allowed us to mentally map out the terrain as we traveled.

The village where we stayed had developed in recent years, but it remained basic. There was no electricity, except for extended hours on that particular evening. Most homes lacked modern toilets, relying on outdoor facilities. We Were lucky that we four (me, Amit, Bhagwan and Dinesh) stayed together.

As the sun set, the temperature began to drop. We had an early dinner around seven and were instructed to return at 1 AM for the midnight race start, scheduled for 3 AM.

I find it difficult to narrate that evening; it’s etched in my memory. Four of us shared a room, and Dinesh suggested we put on our innermost layers before sleeping to ward off the cold. We also kept our extra layers of clothing inside the blankets to keep them warm. These homes were basic, mostly made of wood, with no heating.

By midnight, we were up and ready, packing our bags and leaving the cozy room. We had to drop our bags on the buses and have a light breakfast. There were three bag drop points along the race route, but many of us opted for just two.

As we stood outside in the cold, waiting for the race to begin, we saw a few of the Silk Route Ultra runners crossing. The cold was becoming more intense, with some people shivering.

The race started at 3 AM, and our goal was to trek up the mighty Khardung La over the next seven hours. It was a blessing that it was completely dark, and we couldn’t see the mountain; all we knew was that it was an uphill climb.

From 13,000 to 17,680 feet, the sun rose around 6 AM, and I had a feeling it would be a very warm day. Along the road, I chatted with fellow runners. It was surprising to meet runners from Bangladesh. Ladakh is a sensitive region due to its proximity to China and Pakistan, and it seemed that this was the first time runners from Bangladesh had been allowed to participate. The entire area is under the supervision of the Indian Army.

Climbing uphill was challenging, with countless hairpin turns and seemingly never-ending ascents. Somehow, I reached Khardung La Pass within 6 hours, and I decided to de-layer before starting my descent. It’s advisable not to stay at high altitudes for too long.

Even though it was downhill from there to Leh market, running wasn’t easy. I mostly walked with occasional running breaks, but I kept moving forward. I made sure to stop at every aid station to have a drink or some food and chat with the volunteers. I can’t thank those volunteers enough for standing under the scorching sun, providing support and cheering for every runner. It’s not a massive race in terms of participants; I believe there were around 200 runners this year.

As the day progressed, it became scorching hot, and I contemplated removing another layer. In hindsight, I’m glad I didn’t, as I’d heard horror stories of people struggling to find their bags in South Pullu.

I completed my run without much difficulty and felt strong as I crossed those blue carpets at the finish line.

My roommate, Satish Sir, needs no introduction in the Indian running community. Running Comrades was never on my bucket list, so I didn’t know about him. He’s the first Indian to earn a lifetime green bib after running consecutively for over 10 years.

Unfortunately, it wasn’t a good day for Satish Sir. He finished the race shortly after me, but something seemed off. When doctors examined him, they found that his oxygen levels weren’t optimal, and they decided he should be transferred to the hospital for proper treatment.

High altitude sickness or AMS is not uncommon in such conditions, and people are given oxygen supplements to prevent oxygen deprivation. It was shocking to see other runners in the emergency room as well.

Satish Sir, though seemingly fine, was advised to rest in the hospital under observation, so he spent the night there. Fortunately, he was discharged on Saturday, which was a huge relief for all of us. He wrote details on his Instagram about the same.

Marathon 42 KM Sunday

On Sunday morning, around 5 AM, we walked 2 km from our homestay to the starting point of the full marathon as a warm-up. I was familiar with the full marathon course, having run it in 2019.

The plan was straightforward: finish within 6 hours and 45 minutes, which is a decent time for a 42 km run. The first few kilometers were downhill, so I jogged, as I had some discomfort around my shin. Jogging felt easier than walking.

After covering 7-8 km, I felt good and decided to run to the next aid station, each roughly 3 km apart. I kept telling myself I would run to the next station. The middle section of the course was flat, and soon I reached the halfway point. Another 13-14 km lay ahead, which was relatively flat, but I wasn’t sure if I could continue running. Again, my run was without a specific plan, but my determination kept me going. I stopped at each aid station to sample their food.

After KhardungLa, this run felt like a walk in the park. The stunning scenery and the presence of fellow runners made it enjoyable and not monotonous. I had to walk the last 4 km uphill, but to my surprise, I started running again after five hours, finishing 30 minutes faster than in 2019 when my legs were fresh.

Take away

I was overjoyed to have completed what had seemed impossible in 2019. I can’t thank the mountains enough for their kindness to me this time.

Life continued its course. While I was in Leh, I received the news of my closest maternal uncle’s passing, and I also learned about a friend who lost his 11-year-old daughter. These incidents put everything into perspective, making everything else seem trivial and insignificant. My thoughts and wishes are with my friend and his family during these difficult times.

I can not thank enough one person for this race and that is Dinesh, really offloaded all my journey related thinking to him for those 2 weeks.

Please note that this is my personal account, and I’m not here to scare anyone. I simply want to emphasize the importance of respecting the mountain.

Few Tips from my end

• Be your best judge and critic
• Know yourself, what works for you and what does not.
  • like pre race diet, race hydration
• Another thing which worked for me is , putting up the blinders (like race horses ), when you stay 2 weeks with runners you are going to listen a lot of things but let those not change your mind.
• Nothing replace training so be consistent and be truthful to yourself.
• Also try to tapper as much as you can before the race in Leh.
• Rest/Sleep is critical part of the journey.

Pictures from Ladakh 2023

The official race website to know more about the event.