Day 2 at Jaisalmer
We woke up early to catch the sunrise at Gadisar Lake and the temples around it. The place was almost deserted, giving us a calm, peaceful vibe — perfect for some photos.
Gadisar Lake, an artificial lake built by King Rawal Jaisal, is lined with chhatris and shrines dedicated to Hindu gods and goddesses.
After soaking in the stillness of the morning, we made our way back to the Golden Fort, known for its glowing yellow sandstone that lights up beautifully during sunset.
Sonar Quila, the Golden Fort, is unlike any other — it’s the largest living fort in the world, home to families, temples, cafés, shops, and markets. The fort is protected by four main gates: Akshya Pol, Ganesh Pol, Suraj Pol, and Hawa Pol. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the government is working to preserve its rich history and culture.
As we were entering the fort on foot, we hired a guide after a bit of bargaining. He first took us through seven beautifully carved Jain temples, along with a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu and Goddess Lakshmi. It took us around an hour to complete the temples but you can spend days there as a photographer. We were among the first visitors — the temples open only at 8 AM, and our first picture was clicked at 8:01 AM.
Jains were the merchants and traders of the desert, controlling most of the trade that flowed through the wealthy Silk Route. The story goes that the Jain merchants were so wealthy that they paid extra taxes to build these temples inside the fort. The Hindu king allowed it, and in return, the Jains got protection from external invaders and thieves, while the king’s coffers filled with gold.
The temples are made of yellow sandstone, intricately carved with floral and geometric patterns, and adorned with stunning sculptures. The craftsmanship is truly remarkable, showcasing the skill and artistry of the artisans of that era.
It’s sad that the house pictured in the famous Satyajit Ray movie Sonar Kella is no longer there. It was demolished to make way for a hotel. We had visited that house back in 2012.
As we walked down from the fort, we had some delicious kachoris and Daal Pakwan. There are two kachori shops next to each other — one is Fateh Ki Kachori, and I forgot the name of the other. The kachoris are served with a spicy chutney made from tamarind and green chilies, and the daal pakwan is a crispy snack made from lentils and spices. We tried both, and they were equally good.
We also passed a licensed bhang shop, but for the moment, we stuck with a cool glass of chaas — we had a long day ahead.
Havelis
From the parking lot of the fort, we took our car and drove as close as we could to visit the havelis. After parking, we walked almost a kilometer through narrow lanes and bylanes of homes and markets to reach Patwon Ki Haveli — a stunning example of Rajasthani architecture. The haveli is a complex of five mansions built by wealthy merchants, featuring intricate carvings, beautiful balconies, and courtyards. It’s now a museum showcasing Jaisalmer’s history and culture.
We visited the Salim Singh Ki Haveli next, known for its unique structure and iconic overhanging balconies.
The guide was kind enough to take plenty of family pictures for us. There are also some unique corners in the havelis — reflective roofs or angled corners — that make for interesting photos.
Once we were done, we headed to Dhanraj Ranmal Bhatia (Geeta Ashram Rd) — a sweet shop our friends recommended for its famous Ghotua. We picked up a few boxes of sweets and namkeens to share with army personnel during our next stop.
Tanot Mata Temple and Longewala Border
Next up was the long drive to Tanot Mata Temple, close to the Indo-Pak border, about 120 kilometers from Jaisalmer. Thanks to Santanu’s army contact, everything went smoothly. His friend helped with temple access, border permits, and even lunch arrangements.
An army personnel personally escorted us through a special entry, saving us from what looked like a huge crowd due to the ongoing Dussehra (Durga Puja). Without this help, it probably would’ve taken hours just to get a glimpse of the temple.
After a quick darshan and expressing our gratitude to the officers, we continued towards the Longewala Border. Everything was pre-arranged — paperwork sorted, no delays. We visited the Longewala Museum and army camp, where a special lunch had been organized for us. Super thankful for the hospitality, especially considering how harsh the sun was that day.
Anyone growing up in 90s India must have watched the famous Border movie. The museum is a tribute to the soldiers who fought in the 1971 Indo-Pak war.
It showcases the bravery and sacrifices of the soldiers, with displays of weapons, uniforms, and war photographs. Clips from the war and the movie are played on loop. It’s a must-visit for anyone interested in India’s military history.
After lunch, we stopped at a nearby patch of sand dunes we saw from the road. Took some pictures and decided to take an alternative route back to Jaisalmer. The road was a bit narrow, not a highway, and slightly deserted — but we stopped a couple of times to take random pictures of the vast desert landscape.
Wrapping Up — With a Twist
Later that evening, we returned to the Jaisalmer Fort for dinner. It wasn’t a great meal — we tried a rooftop terrace restaurant near the main entrance.
And yeah — I finally tried bhang thandai for the first time. It’s a traditional drink made from a herbal cannabis variant, legally sold at government-authorized shops in India.
With that adventurous day wrapped up, we headed back to our hotel — exhausted but happy. Tomorrow’s another big one — a 600 km drive to Jaipur awaits!
You can book in advance with this link
Till next time, Jaisalmer — you’ve been golden.
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